Our First AmaWaterways River Cruise Was Not What We Expected

Our first river cruise was along the Seine with Viking last year. Looking to expand our horizons, we just set sail on an off-season Best of the Danube cruise with AmaWaterways on the line’s flagship vessel, AmaMagna. Although several elements of river cruising are the same regardless of the cruise line, our AmaWaterways river cruise really surprised us in many ways. Find out why in our AmaWaterways Danube River cruise review.

The Best of the Danube on AmaMagna – Our First AmaWaterways River Cruise Review

Most river cruise lines offer a variety of options for exploring the historic cities nestled on the banks of the Danube. However, few can measure up to AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna. This “double-wide”, 196-passenger vessel stands out in a crowd. Twice the width of a typical river cruise vessel, the extra space offers guests more area to relax and experience the variety of onboard amenities.

Featuring a modern design, with warm tones and open spaces that were inviting yet still intimate, AmaMagna certainly felt more like a floating upscale resort than a cruise ship. In fact, given the available amenities, AmaMagna almost felt more like a small ocean ship than a river ship.

This 7-day itinerary was roundtrip from Budapest, Hungary, not departing until 7 PM. So, while guests could fly in the day of the cruise, we opted for a pre-cruise hotel at the Aria Hotel.

This boutique hotel was the perfect luxury accommodation to overcome our jetlag before setting off to explore new destinations. The Aria Hotel features musically-inspired rooms, each with a unique theme. With spacious accommodations, and upgraded offerings like complimentary breakfast, a wine and cheese cocktail hour with live music, a thermal suite, and a stunning rooftop bar, we would highly recommend this hotel when visiting Budapest.

The AmaWaterways Experience

AmaWaterways offers guests a seamless, and mostly inclusive, experience.

Pre-cruise, guests can select from a variety of shore excursion options. In fact, all but one of the tours were included, so guests don’t have to worry about any upcharged activities. These tours ranged from routine city walks, to nature hikes and bike rides, to day-long sojourns to nearby picturesque cities.

Unlike our previous river cruise experience, we did like that there were options in most ports rather than just the one “included tour”. Sometimes, there were unique tour offerings and other times the offerings were divided into activity levels. This particularly appealed to us as we remembered being slightly bored with the slow pace of our previous tours. Instead, guests could choose active tours like hikes and bikes, regular-paced walking tours, or “gentle” tours which were either slower paced walking tours or panoramic bus tours. This variety ensured that those with limited mobility were accommodated as well.

Along with ashore programming, most onboard amenities are included in the cruise fare as well. All guests receive free Wi-Fi internet, which offered reliable connections throughout our voyage. In line with our previous experience, guests can access specialty coffee 24-7 at coffee kiosks. And beer, wine, and soft drinks are included at lunch and dinner.

One nice touch is the additional Sip and Sail cocktail hour. Before dinner, the Cruise Manager hosts this social gathering where guests can mingle and enjoy some complimentary cocktails. The limited menu includes several house wines, beer, and a small selection of drinks. Luckily, Heidi’s go-to Cosmopolitan was on the menu each night!

Further, all meals are included, with breakfast, lunch, and dinner available at more than just the main dining room. One advantage of the ship’s larger size is the ability to offer alternative dining options. Still, most other ships in AmaWaterways’ fleet do offer at least a chef’s table in addition to the main dining room.

Complimentary self-service laundry, a focused wellness program that even included spin bikes, and a pool on the sundeck were just some of the additional inclusions we weren’t expecting on our first AmaWaterways river cruise.

The Restaurant on AmaMagna

Perhaps the biggest surprise for us during this river cruise was the dining. With four different dinner options, guests can choose their experience.

If you are like us and want to try them all, you’ll need to make reservations once you board the ship for the alternative dining venues. However, reservations are not needed for the main dining room as there is open seating during all meals.

The main dining room on AmaMagna is The Restaurant on the main deck, midship. Unlike typical river cruise dining rooms where communal dining is the only option, The Restaurant boasted several different sized table and booths. So, some nights we dined with a larger group, while other times we ate on our own. We liked this flexibility because let’s face it, sometimes you just don’t feel like being social.

The Restaurant typically offered breakfast around 7-7:30 AM. It boasted a made-to-order menu of breakfast specialties, like custom omelets and Eggs Benedict. There were also daily specials, like a toasty and spicy breakfast burrito. In addition, there was a small buffet, with breakfast pastries, European breakfast, fresh fruit, and a few warm selections that guests could serve themselves.

At lunch, typically served around noon, the menu featured “Always Available” options like hamburgers or pizza. Honestly though, these menu options were not necessarily our favorites. But we didn’t come to Central Europe for your typical cruise fare. Happily, there were daily regional specialities, like Käsespätzle or Pork Belly, that delivered some of the local flavors. Other standouts during lunch included Tandoori Chicken Curry and Thai Shrimp Curry.

Another nice touch is that everyone is treated to all of that day’s starters presented on a sharing board. Of course, you can order a soup or salad in addition to these small plates.

Dinner at the Restaurant on AmaMagna usually started around 7 PM after the Sip and Sail cocktail hour.

The dinner menu features several appetizers, a daily soup, entrees, and dessert each evening. In addition to the “Always Included” selections, there were vegetarian recommendations each night. This was perfect for Heidi. However, the accommodating chefs were also willing to customize some dishes, like swapping beef tenderloin for chicken on a poke bowl.

The dinner menus also featured a couple of dishes each evening with local ingredients. For instance, there was a pork schnitzel that paired perfectly with that evening’s hand-selected wines when docked overnight in Vienna. Other hearty and rich offerings like slow-braised black angus short ribs or tender and sweet rack of lamb were just a few of the delectable dishes we enjoyed throughout the cruise.

AmaMagna’s Alternative Dining Options

While the main dining room offers a traditional rotating three-course menu, guests can enjoy the exact same fare in a family-style setting at Jimmy’s Restaurant. This alternative dining space is only open for dinner.

Located on Piano Deck, Deck 1, named after co-founder Jimmy Murphy, this restaurant has a laid-back, communal feel with nods to Irish heritage. We liked the setup and concept, but didn’t like that Jimmy’s served the same menu as the main dining room just plated differently. We feel the restaurant should have a distinct menu of its own, perhaps with Irish fare.

Nonetheless, we dined here one evening to check it out. Our table carved into shared plates, including the aforementioned rack of lamb. However, certain selections do not necessarily lend themselves to this style of dining. So, having a set menu for the entire voyage would make more sense.

Across the way from Jimmy’s Restaurant is the Chef’s Table. This venue offers a 7-course dining menu that stays the same throughout the voyage. These included a Goat Cheese and Tomato Sphere, Spinach Raviolini, Coconut Lemon Grass Soup, Grilled Pike, Sorbet, Slow Roasted Beef Tenderloin, and a Chocolate Sphere for dessert. With a display kitchen in the restaurant’s corner, this smaller, sophisticated dining room is a nice change of pace.

Finally, all the way forward on Deck 2 is the Al Fesco restaurant. This venue is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and late night snacks, offering a more casual atmosphere.

In the morning, Al Fresco has a small buffet along with The Restaurant’s made-to-order menu. Open longer than the main dining room, it was a bright and airy place for us to start most of our days on the ship.

For lunch, the Al Fresco restaurant offers the main dining room’s always-included options and a condensed version of The Restaurant’s other offerings. It typically featured a sandwich of the day, like the Austrian Alpen wrap, an entree, a salad, and one dessert.

At dinner, the Al Fresco restaurant turned into its own unique setting. To our surprise, it had a completely different set menu throughout the cruise. The only two entree selections were a Herb-Crusted Beef Striploin or a Tomato Ricotta Tarte. So actually, Heidi ended up asking for the chicken dish from the main dining room instead.

While we liked this venue for breakfast and lunch, it was our least favorite dinner option. We think it would be great if the cruise line made this a more casual, grab-and-go dining option for dinner. They could serve select dishes from that evening’s main dining room, or other quick service dishes, in a self-service style. This way guests would not have to sit through a multi-course meal after a long day ashore if they didn’t want to, especially since room service is not an option. This would then free up the kitchen to do something unique for Jimmy’s Restaurant.

Overall though, the food on our AmaWaterways river cruise exceeded our expectations.

Onboard Amenities and Activities

As one of the largest ships sailing the Danube, or any European river really, AmaMagna is home to some of the most public venues on any river ship.

More active cruisers will appreciate the ship’s fitness facilities. All the way aft, there is a gym open 24 hours a day. You can work up a sweat with cardio machines, free weights, and the like. Besides self-led workout routines, the onboard Wellness Host led several group fitness classes, spin classes, and yoga sessions.

AmaMagna also has a Spa. There, you can be pampered with upcharge services like massages, manicures, and pedicures. A full-service hair salon is also available.

We enjoyed one warm afternoon on the outdoor decks during our sail back to Budapest. But during the warmer months, there are various loungers, tables and chairs, and sofas on the sundeck. There is also a pool and hot tub, which our last river ship did not feature. While it was cold during our February sailing, the pool water is heated, so some cruisers did make use of this space.

Oh, and we can’t overlook the full-sized pickleball court. While vacant most of our cruise, we suspect this is a popular place to be on those warm scenic sailing days of the summer.

Although, what AmaMagna was missing is daily onboard programming. It seemed like the focus was on wellness offerings instead of enrichment offerings. This seven-day itinerary has several mornings of scenic cruising, with mostly afternoons ashore. So, we definitely think this is a missed opportunity.

One morning, a culinary team member demonstrated how to make apple strudel. Another late afternoon, one of the musicians led an arts and crafts activity. But, there wasn’t much related to any of the ports of call or the region beyond the culinary offerings.

Yes, there were brief port talks, but they mostly just discussed the upcoming shore excursions. We would have appreciated some informal talks on the history of the region, or the castles and palaces, or even something about The Sound of Music and some filming locations to see while in Salzburg for instance. These edu-tainment type activities were a glaring omission in our opinion.

Further, while the ship has an onboard library, the books are a hodge-podge of random topics. Few of the reading materials actually focused on any of the cities or countries we visited. There is also a comfy Cinema with plush chairs and an oversized television that was never used. At the very least, the Cinema could have been playing the Sound of Music on a continuous loop or other movies and documentaries related to the itinerary. These spaces felt under-utilized.

Nighttime Entertainment

Like most river cruises, there wasn’t much variety on AmaMagna in the evenings. The Lounge on Deck 3 was the main bar and entertainment space. While it was technically open most of the day, the venue did not liven up until around 6 PM with the line’s Sip and Sail cocktail hour.

This nightly social event was where the Cruise Manager, Martina, shined. Her energetic personality was perfect for this pre-dinner gathering. Having worked for AmaWaterways for nearly a decade, she was well versed in river cruising. As Cruise Manager, she made herself available to guests and wanted to ensure everyone made the most of their vacation.

On one evening, a local music trio came onboard to perform a melody of classical pieces and contemporary hits after dinner. On other nights, the resident duo, Richard and Anna, kept the late-night crowd singing and dancing with live music.

Overall, we would have appreciated more varied nighttime entertainment. We expected more local performances or presentations. It would have been nice to have a nightly game show or trivia session as well to liven up the crowd, perhaps between dinner and the live music.

Actually, the more in-depth ports talks and the group activities hosted by the cruise manager on our previous river cruise were some of the highlights of that trip.

Stateroom

Our cozy outside balcony, cabin 229, was on the starboard side of the Cello Deck, Deck 2. This category AB stateroom measured 252 square feet and was very akin to our typical balcony staterooms on ocean ships. Immediately entering the room, the bathroom was to the left, and the closet was to the right.

Further into the room was a small desk tucked around the corner behind the bathroom. Then, the bed was on the forward wall facing aft and was adjacent to the balcony.

While the rest of AmaMagna felt open and spacious, we would have appreciated additional space in our cabin. There was limited storage beyond the closet. And the walls weren’t magnetic, so we couldn’t use our tried-and-true cabin hacks for additional storage.

So, it took some creative unpacking to fit all our gear for this week-long cruise. Plus, the only full-length mirror was on the back of the closet door, completely blocking the main walkway when in use.

However, we did appreciate the USB outlets on each side of the bed. Along with cubby-style nightstands, I was able to pack away some of our accessories.

Perhaps what we missed the most was a seating area. Besides the desk, there was no sofa or even a bedside chair. I ended up taking a balcony chair inside on a few occasions so we could both have a place to sit and do some work.

Surprisingly, the bathroom was relatively large, with a full-sized tiled shower and a standard vanity. Compared to our previous river cruise stateroom, the bathroom definitely offered more space, which made getting ready for each day’s adventure easier.

Finally, the balcony was the length of the stateroom and just deep enough for our two chairs and table. Even though the weather was cool, grey, and overcast on several days, we did spend some time on our balcony. Whether it was scenic sailing, or an afternoon doing a little work, we enjoyed having this personal outdoor space.

While the interior size of our room was similar to that of category E and D staterooms on the Piano Deck (think oceanview), we believe upgrading to this category stateroom is worth gaining the additional outdoor space. However, if we were to sail on this class of ship in the future, we would probably book one of the entry level suites, which are almost 50% bigger. They feature a split bathroom design, more storage, and a separate seating area.  

The Best of the Danube Itinerary

This seven-day roundtrip itinerary is perfect for those looking to test the waters with a river cruise. With many river cruises lasting 10 to 14 days, this week-long sailing is the ideal introduction to this type of cruise.

The itinerary features three countries (which were all new for us!) and several popular spots along this famous river. Thus, it provides plenty of opportunity to explore the region’s hallmark cities at a comfortable pace. Starting and ending in Budapest, Hungary, we also cruised to Bratislava, Slovakia and Vienna, Austria.

Roundtrip Budapest

Budapest was our starting and ending point for this sailing. Spending multiple days here is fitting, as the city has two distinct areas, the ” Pest” and the “Buda” sides. Thus, we were able to dedicate a day to each.

Even if you arrive on embarkation day, the cruise line allows guests to drop off luggage at the ship as early as 9:30 AM. With embarkation not starting until later in the afternoon and an all-aboard of 6:30 PM, the first day is ripe for exploration.

With our pre-cruise hotel stay, we were up and ready to explore independently. The Aria Hotel is ideally located within walking distance of several landmarks on the Pest side of the city. So, we spent close to three hours strolling the streets, taking in sights like St. Stephen’s Basilica, the Parliament Building, the Shoes on the Danube Memorial, Liberty Square, the Dohány Street Synagogue, and the Ruin Bars.

On the back end, we took the included Buda Walking Tour. After a quick ride over to the other side of the Danube, we had about 3 hours to explore the city’s original center. We strolled this fortified area with our tour guide providing commentary along the way. After admiring the Castle building, the “Hungarian White House”, Matthias Church, and Fisherman’s Bastion, we had just enough free time for a little shopping and a chimney cake.

Have Fun Storming the Castle

On Day 2, the ship pulled into the quaint capital city of Bratislava, Slovakia.

We didn’t have far to walk to see the historic old town as our ship was docked just a few blocks away. With our Quietvox in tow, we joined the group for our “Cornation City” walking tour.

Showcasing the city’s unique history over several centuries, our guide detailed her personal experiences living under the Soviet regime before the liberation of this small country. With remnants of Soviet rule scattered throughout the city, the cobblestone streets led the way to churches and landmarks hundreds of years old. From the preserved Michael’s Gate, or parts of the original wall abutting a highway, the city is a charming mix of old and new.

Weaving in and out of the streets are other notable photo ops, like Mirbach Palace and St. Martin’s Cathedral, as well as statues carved into the streets, like Cumil, popping up from a manhole. But, perhaps the most iconic city landmark is the impressive Bratislava Castle overlooking the city. While several of our fellow cruisers made the trek to the top, we enjoyed some coffee and souvenir shopping following the guided tour.

Luckily, we were treated to nighttime castle vistas as we sailed on to our next port of call.

Scenic Cruising Has Evaded Us Again

One of the draws of river cruising is that land is never out of sight—but not just any land. River cruises often appeal to those looking to sail by ancient villages, rolling valleys, and majestic castles.

While we were let down by many of the vistas on our Seine River cruise, we were ready for the Danube to wow us. Unfortunately, Mother Nature did not want to cooperate. With dense fog and a cloudy, wet morning, our scenic cruising time through the Wachau Valley did not deliver precisely the views we hoped for on this trip.

However, we learned the night before that the afternoon tour to Melk Abbey was getting upgraded. Now, along with a tour of this UNESCO World Heritage site, we would also visit the river village of Durnstein. One of the benefits of cruising off-season is that there are fewer crowds and virtually no traffic. So, the cruise line was able to modify the itinerary to add some additional time at this nearby town.

So, we set off on a short bus ride from our docking point in Weissenkirchen to this small town known for its vineyards. Again, the weather did not fully cooperate, but we enjoyed our guided stroll in town before taking the 30-minute drive to the magnificent 18th-century Abbey.

Known for its Baroque architecture, Melk Abbey is home to many impressive religious artifacts dating back centuries. With a tour taking us through this massive complex’s various construction periods and history, it was reminiscent of touring the Vatican.

Intricately designed rooms dive deeper into the religious underpinnings of the Abbey and its monks. We quickly visited its famous library, which has manuscripts dating back over 700 years. The tour culminates with a stop in the church, with over 4 kilograms of gold-leafed statues.

The Hills Are Alive

Heidi and I are often over-planners. But, given our travels, we had less time than usual to prepare for this trip.

Thus, when docking in Linz, we were unsure what to do. The cruise line offered three distinct options. One was a walking tour of the port, the third largest city in Austria. The others were full-day excursions to either Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic or Salzburg, Austria the birthplace of Mozart.

We opted for the latter and boarded a coach at 8:30 AM to set off in search of music. We learned that Salzburg is also home to the von Trapp family, the inspiration for the beloved film, The Sound of Music. So, our guided walking tour included stops at locations featured in the film as well as stops related to Mozart’s life.

Starting at Mirabell Palace, we had time for some quick photo ops in the Gardens, but given the time of year, they were not in bloom yet. From there, we were only a few blocks away from one of Mozart’s residences.

Along the way, the city’s 17th and 18th-century architecture seamlessly blended with modern structures. Trying to keep up with our guide while also admiring the cityscapes, historic buildings, and statues felt a bit overwhelming.

Crossing a pedestrian bridge, it was on to Getreidegasse, a popular shopping district. The windows of these small shops were lined with intricate keepsakes and local delicacies. Of course, during our free time, Heidi and I found our way back to a Christmas store to ensure we took home an ornament from one of these stores.

This well-traveled road is also home to one of the most popular tourist spots, Mozart’s birthplace. Once an unknown location, the third floor of this rather ordinary apartment is now a museum. The tour continued by Residenzplatz, with its museums and the Salzburg Cathedral ending near St. Peter’s Church.

We then had close to three hours of free time. So, along with acquiring our requisite souvenirs, we took the FestungsBahn up to Fortress Hohensalzburg. This 11th-century fortress gives a bird’s-eye view of the city. On a clear day, the Alps would also be visible. There are also several museum exhibits, restaurants, and stores. In fact, you could spend a whole day exploring this fortress city.

As part of the adventure, we stopped by Café Tomaselli for a coffee and pastry, just like Mozart, one of their most famous patrons.

While we were not as prepared as usual for a full day of sightseeing, we still accomplished quite a bit, with only minimal disagreements.

I’m Not Sure What I’m Seeing

Since leaving Melk, AmaMagna had begun its return trip east. After a morning of scenic cruising, we arrived in the romantic city of Vienna. Following a typical morning aboard, we geared up for an entire afternoon and evening in this avant-garde capital city.

Our included tour of the day was the “Imperial Vienna” city tour and carriage ride. Departing after lunch, there was a 30-minute bus ride from the ship to the heart of the city down the famous Ringstrasse Boulevard. This panoramic tour almost gave us whiplash, as the guide pointed out sights one after another appearing on both sides of the bus, from the Opera House to historic hotels, churches, museums, and squares.

The bus eventually dropped us off at Rathausplatz. Exiting the coach, we were surrounded by impressive reconstructed 18th-century buildings. With seemingly every building along our tour being noteworthy, or at least picture-worthy, it was tough keeping up.

But we soon reached a point near the Hofburg Palace for our carriage ride. Again, the weather remained cloudy and drizzly, so our carriage had the roof on it. Thus, we didn’t see much of what we were passing and there wasn’t any narration during the 30-minute ride.

From there, we snapped a few photos of the front of the palace before heading to our next destination, the urban center. Unlike other sections of Vienna, the stroll down Rotenturmstraße felt more like we were in the middle of New York City with luxury shops and several restaurants.

Our tour ended outside of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. This medieval church feels almost out of place nestled in the middle of tourist traps and skyscrapers. With barely 40 minutes of free time, we barely had time to accomplish anything else before getting bused back to the ship.

A Night Out in Vienna

Once back onboard, it was a mad dash to change and prepare for our evening jaunt back into the city.

Initially, we had booked the upcharge concert experience offered by the cruise line, but we ended up switching to a different classical concert suggested by a friend. With the concert at 8 PM, we had to be ready for an early dinner.

Luckily, the Restaurant offered additional “early seating” to accommodate guests heading off on the cruise-sponsored tour. So, we grabbed a table of six, scarfed down some schnitzel, and had an Uber waiting to take us to St. Anne’s Church.

The 75-minute performance included a four-piece string ensemble that featured works by Mozart, Schubert, and Strauss. Having very little knowledge of classical music, each piece was a new introduction to the works of these musical masterminds.

A Morning Fit for an Empress

Our first day in Vienna was spent admiring the main highlights of the city. So, on our second day, we joined the tour groups for the included tour of the Schönbrunn Palace. Located about 35 minutes from our ship, this summer residence of the Habsburg dynasty is one of the most popular destinations to visit in Austria.

Walking through the Palace gates, a massive square reveals the Palace constructed by Maria Theresa, the only female ruler from the Habsburg family. Similar to Versailles in France, all tour groups take the same route through the second-floor living quarters. Passing through grand halls and galleries, our guide intertwined the rise and fall of the ruling family over hundreds of years. Being one of the first tours of the morning (and off-season), the Palace was not overrun by tourists.

Following the tour of the main building, we were given about 40 minutes to explore the gardens on our own. Again, had this been spring or summer with flowers in bloom, this wouldn’t have been nearly enough time. As it was, we didn’t even have time to get up the hill to Gloriette.

Luckily, the gardens are open for anyone to explore. So, if the timing is right, we will probably return to Schönbrunn Palace to stroll the gardens on a future visit to Vienna.

Recap of Our First AmaWaterways River Cruise Review

Our first AmaWaterways river cruise was filled with exquisite dining, picturesque cities, and fond memories.

AmaMagna was the perfect introduction to this river cruise line. As ocean cruise enthusiasts, we felt more at home on this river cruise ship. With several public spaces and additional amenities, it was more akin to the offerings and choice that we appreciate on ocean-going vessels. We also like the more inclusive nature of AmaWaterways and river cruising in general. With all meals, most tours, and many drinks included in the cruise fare, there’s no nickel-and-diming.

The dining was a highlight, featuring a variety of regionally-inspired dishes, classic options, and diverse dining arrangements. Still, we would have liked more casual, self-serve options. And we missed not having soft-baked cookies and other treats near the coffee machines in the afternoons.

The crew was friendly and attentive and happy to accommodate our requests. Even though everyone was basically on the same schedule, none of the venues felt busy and meals were well-paced. Martina was a fantastic cruise manager as well. Though, we were a bit let-down by the activities, entertainment, and enrichment, or lack thereof.

Sailing during off-season meant we were among the only cruisers at many of the ports of call. This gave us the opportunity to explore with fewer crowds and take in more of each stop’s natural beauty, unique architecture, and culture.

On the other hand, most days were grey, cloudy, and cool. Thus, most of our scenic cruising was met with less-than-ideal weather. And we didn’t get to enjoy the outdoor sundeck as much as we would have liked. When the sun finally did reveal itself on our sail back to Budapest, Martina entered the wheelhouse to provide commentary for this iconic sail into port. In fact, this was the perfect way to end our trip.

Seeing additional river cruise ships docked along the Danube, it reminded us that we have much more to discover about river cruises and many more rivers to explore.

Comments

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