We Just Returned From Our First Viking River Cruise And Here’s What It Was Really Like

Boarding a river ship that only holds 168 guests was a bit different for us given we usually sail on the world’s largest cruise ships. But, to explore Paris and the banks of Northern France, we decided to step outside of our comfort zone and put our trust in the crew of Viking Radgrid. This vessel is one of four Viking longships specifically designed to cruise the Seine River.

While we have sailed with Viking on the brand’s ocean and expedition ships, this was our first river cruise. Now, we are back from our Paris & the Heart of Normandy itinerary and want to share what it was really like in our Viking Seine River cruise review.

Viking Seine River Cruise Review

Exploring the World in Comfort

When cruising with Viking, regardless of whether it is an ocean, expedition, or river ship, there are many similarities. From modern Scandinavian design and warm hospitality to a level of inclusion not found on contemporary brands, Viking guests feel right at home. This level of consistency helped ease us into our first river cruise experience.

It also helps that Viking guests are taken care of from the moment they arrive at the airport. With Viking’s all-inclusive offering, flights booked with the cruise line include free transfers from the airport to the ship.

While we usually fly in a day before any cruise, this Paris & the Heart of Normandy itinerary includes an extra day at the embarkation point. Thus, there is no need for a pre-cruise hotel unless you want to extend your stay.

Luckily, we had a direct, overnight flight from Boston to Paris. Arriving around 9:30 AM, we were quickly greeted by a Viking representative in a bright red coat and were on a bus heading to the ship within 30 minutes of getting our luggage. Unfortunately, Viking can’t help the traffic though, as it was nearly a 2 hour drive from Charles de Gaulle airport to our docking location in Paris.

However, upon arrival at the ship, embarkation was a breeze. We were checked in, escorted to our stateroom with our luggage, and ready to get our adventure started.

Viking Inclusions

If you are new to cruising with Viking, you should know what’s included in your cruise fare and what’s not. Included on all Viking river cruises are:

• All meals
• Beer and wine at lunch and dinner
• One daily excursion
• WiFi
• Specialty coffee, tea, soda, and bottled water

Unfortunately, there is no room service on Viking river cruises. There is also no pool, fitness center, spa, or casino. Further, beyond beer and wine at meals, all other alcoholic beverages will cost extra. Viking does offer the Silver Spirits drink package, which is very reasonably priced at $25 per person, per day.

Dining

One of the staples on any cruise is dining and Viking river cruises are no different. On Viking Radgrid, there are two main dining areas, The Restaurant and the Aquavit Terrace.

The Restaurant on Deck 2 is a formal restaurant that resembles a typical main dining room. With panoramic windows lining both sides of the venue, there are constant scenic views. The Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a variety of options and local specialties. Though, you’ll need to make friends as there are mostly large tables and no tables just for two.

The Restaurant usually opens for breakfast around 7 AM and is a hybrid dining experience. It includes a small buffet of breakfast items like scrambled eggs, bacon, and breakfast potatoes. Guests can also order off a menu with made-to-order items like pancakes and French toast.

Lunch is served promptly from noon to about 2 PM each day, which means all cruisers need to dine during these hours if they want lunch. The lunch menu consists of always available options like the signature salad and a hamburger. There are also a few rotational selections that vary daily like short ribs and an energy bowl.

Each evening, dinner followed that night’s port talk, usually starting at 7 PM. Again, cruisers can opt for always available selections or regional specialties with Chef Recommendations that included dishes like brie pane, poulet aux morilles, mille-feuille, and boeuf a la bourguignonne. One evening, Viking also features a signature regional buffet, which was the Taste of Normandy on our sailing.

While the menus are smaller than main dining rooms on most ocean ships, the quality and presentation were top notch.

The second dining offering is the Aquavit Terrace up on Deck 3. Offering tables for 2 and 4 and al fresco dining, this venue serves the same menu as The Restaurant for lunch and dinner. The only difference is the more casual setup and ambiance.

Unfortunately, the patio was closed for most of the cruise, given the mostly unfavorable weather conditions. So, each night, it became a competition to nab the handful of tables available inside the Aquavit Terrace.

In addition, cookies (continental items in the morning) and 24-hour specialty coffees and teas are available at two self-serve stations on Deck 3. Along with the selection of espresso beverages, they also offer syrups and skim milk. Thus, we had all the essential ingredients for Heidi’s twice-daily nonfat caramel latte.

What we did miss though were more casual, grab-and-go options. While the Aquavit Terrace did have continental breakfast selections, it did not offer the same setup for lunch or dinner. We would have liked the ability to grab a sandwich, a personal pizza, or salad to bring back to our room on some occasions, especially because there’s no room service. Thus, after a long day in port, the only option is a sit-down meal.

Onboard Amenities and Activities

In contrast to the larger ocean ships on which we typically sail, Viking Radgrid only has four decks and hence few public areas. Deck 2 is home to a small Guest Services desk and a small shop with Viking logo items and children’s books by Viking’s EVP Karine Hagen.

Deck 3 features a small library with books and games, an “internet cafe” with two computers, and the Lounge. The Lounge is the main bar and entertainment space on the ship.

Deck 4 is a full length sundeck with plenty of seating to enjoy the outdoors as the weather allows. It also features a small herb garden, a walking track, and the smoking area. One mile will take nearly 16 laps around the track.

Further, anyone interested can sign up at guest services for a visit to the wheelhouse. Unlike the bridge of a ship, this top-deck wheelhouse is hydraulic and lowers automatically when encountering low bridges.

Of note, there is one small elevator for those with mobility issues as well.

Nighttime Entertainment

With each new day consisting of at least one new port of call, there was little downtime during our Viking Seine River cruise. As one of the benefits of river cruising, guests get to explore off the beaten path destinations and quaint towns that can’t be accessed by larger cruise ships. There’s also more time in port, sometimes even two different ports in one day, and plenty of scenic cruising in between stops.

Subsequently, the Viking Daily’s list of onboard activities is more sparse when compared to ocean cruising. One morning, a local artist did come on board to offer a lecture on impressionism.

Then, once most cruisers are back on board in the evenings, there is usually some kind of activity taking place in the Lounge. Following dinner, we enjoyed live local musicians or a cultural activity, like opera singers and a string trio.

Additionally, the program director, Mia, hosted a port talk around 6:30 PM each day. This included an introduction to the next day’s ports, tour options, and any procedural information that we needed to know. During our sailing, Mia also hosted a French lesson and a game show that was a lot of fun. Having more game shows and group activities like this throughout the week would have been nice.  

Besides being a great host, Mia did an outstanding job coordinating the excursions. She always had a smile, was talkative, and was present throughout the ship at all hours of the day. Given that she was essentially the entire activities staff, she managed her many duties well.

Stateroom

We stayed in stateroom 219, a veranda (B) stateroom on Deck 2. All the cabins on the starboard side of this deck are balcony cabins, while those on the portside are French balcony cabins. Deck 1 consists of standard staterooms, which feature river views from a half-height picture window. Deck 3 consists of additional veranda and French balcony staterooms, along with a few suites.

While cruise ship cabins are small in general, this 205-square-foot cabin felt even cozier than the typical balcony staterooms found on ocean ships.

Immediately upon entering the room, the bathroom was on the aft wall. The tiled shower had just enough room, thanks to the double-sided glass doors. With two storage shelves and upgraded features like premium bath products and heated floors, the bathroom was comfortable and functional for the week.

Across from the bathroom is the closet. It featured deep shelves with the safe on one side and a clothes bar with hangers on the other side. The forward wall has a long table/desk, four drawers which we used for additional clothing storage, and a mini fridge. Here, you’ll also find carafes of water that are refilled daily and the Quietvox devices which are utilized on most shore excursions.

Further, the cruise line allows guests to bring local products back on the ship, like food or alcoholic beverages, that are able to be consumed during the voyage. So, this is a nice perk.

The queen-sized Viking Explorer bed is on the aft wall facing forward, across from the desk. Each side of the bed has a 110 V outlet, European outlet, and 2 USBs. There was also a nightstand on one side and a small table on the other along with one lone chair.

This seating area was a bit tight, but the nook became my workstation for the week. The table was large enough to house my computer and charge various devices.  

Getting from the door, past the bed, to the balcony is a tight squeeze. But, considering only 35 cabins on the ship have a veranda, we are not complaining. We appreciated having the balcony with two chairs and a table to enjoy the scenic cruising.

Viking Seine River Cruise Review – The Itinerary

Our Paris & the Heart of Normandy 8-day itinerary consisted of seven ports of call. Along with Paris and the Beaches of Normandy, the stops ranged from quaint villages to bustling cities. Each port along the way offered an opportunity to experience something new.

With 6 included tours, and two optional excursions, there wasn’t dull moment, as we wanted to make the most of our first visit to this region.

Springtime in Paris

We embarked Viking Radgrid in Paris where the ship remained through the following day. Given the rainy weather and jet lag, we did not get out to explore much during our first day in the city. So, we packed in as much as possible on the second day of our cruise.

The weather was slightly better on Day 2. It was cloudy, with a few periods of sun, but it was still rather chilly. In the morning, we set off on Viking’s included Panoramic Paris shore excursion.

This mix of a bus tour and walking tour hit several of the city’s highlights. It included a city center stop for a selfie in front of the Eiffel Tower, a ride down the Champs-Élysées, and two circles around the Arc de Triomphe for photos. We did get off the bus for a short while near Notre Dame and the Latin quarter. The 3.5-hour tour was a good overview as we had never been to Paris. But, given the 2024 Olympics, many areas were under construction.

Back to the ship for a quick lunch, we headed out on one of the optional tours to the Palace of Versailles in the afternoon. This 4-hour tour included a transfer to the 17th-century palace. Now a museum, we had a standard tour that took several large groups through two wings of the massive building.

Our tour guide did a great job weaving through the crowds. She never stopped her narration of the history as we dodged other tourists. Unfortunately, we had limited time to explore the gardens independently afterwards as we got caught in a rainstorm.

We Had the Chateau to Ourselves

On Day 3, we awoke in the quaint village of La Roche-Guyon.

For the morning, we strolled the picturesque streets of this small community situated right along the banks of the Seine River. Various historic buildings exist throughout the village, but the 12th-century Château de La Roche-Guyon is the most iconic.

We opted for a self-guided tour with the Viking discount, which costs $7.50 per visitor. We spent about 90 minutes exploring this partially restored castle using the audio guide and overview map. If you can handle the 250 steps, a walk up to the castle’s bell tower is worth it for the panoramic views of the village.

With the ship departing for Vernon at 2 PM, we opted for one of the included tours to the town of Auvers-sur-Oise. This little known locale is the final home of the impressionist painter Vincent Van Gough. This tour included stops in the town associated with the 70 days the painter spent here before the tragic end of his life, including the famous church he painted.

Again, our tour guide was excellent. She provided a wealth of history and backstory about the town, the region, and this iconic artist. We also had some free time to pop into a local bakery for fresh pastries.

Of note, this tour was a substitute for the Monet Gardens given we were too early in the season.

Roaming the Streets of Rouen

Grey skies loomed overhead as our longship sailed along the Seine, approaching our most northern stop, Rouen, on Day 4. With small towns, factories, and pastures dotting the coastline, we had a lazy morning of work.

After lunch, we headed ashore for the 1:45 PM walking tour of the city. For about 90 minutes, our guide weaved in and out of a few blocks showcasing the 16th-century architecture. From the half-timbered buildings intertwined with modern-day shops and cafes, Roen was much different than any of the places we visited on this trip.

While not walking far, we did hit the highlights. Among the photo-ops were the Church of Saint Maclou, the Palace of Justice, the Church of St. Joan of Arc, the Town Clock and Belfry, and the Notre Dame Cathedral.

The tour ended at the Old Market Place, giving us free time to explore independently. While the museums in town are free, we opted for macarons and Starbucks coffee. That’s French enough, right?

Remembering The Past

Along with the embarkation city of Paris, the other highlight of this itinerary is a full-day excursion to the landing beaches of Normandy.  

On Day 5, we set off from Roen (where we were docked overnight) on this 11-hour tour. The briefing the night before set the emotional stage for the tour and reliving the historic events of June 6, 1944.

The day-long excursion included an approximately 2.5-hour drive to Caen. One of the major holdouts after the landing, this city is home to a thoughtfully laid-out and curated museum. Our stop included approximately two hours here with a partially guided tour. We then had some free time to explore the exhibits on our own.

From here, we made a short lunch stop before heading to the American National Cemetery, about 45 minutes away. We had about 90 minutes at the cemetery, which included a brief ceremony at the memorial and time to roam the grounds where over 9,400 American soldiers are buried.

The final stop was at Omaha Beach. The 30 minutes here let guests walk along the beach and reflect on the D-day landing. Back on the bus, it was close to three hours back to the ship.

A Sunny Day in Les Andelys

When we pulled into the charming village of Les Andelys on Day 6, it was quite grey. The early morning fog made us concerned it would be another gloomy day. Yet, by late morning, the skies cleared, and it was a bright and sunny midday—at least for now.

With our tour scheduled for 2 PM, we had free time to see some of the sights on our own. Thus, we took a quick stroll and made sure to grab some photos and videos of the ship before meeting our tour shoreside.

We spent the next two hours strolling the streets of this picturesque village with our energetic and enthusiastic tour guide. The most impressive site is the 12th-century Chateau Gaillard, built by Richard the Lion Heart. Technically, you can get better shots of the remains from the riverbank, but making the trek to the top is worth it. We were able to get amazing pictures of the town and the ship from here.

Along the way, we also learned about the town’s history and the chateau’s construction. Of note, it is a rather steep ascent. So, do keep your physical fitness levels in mind.

When we finished the tour, we took our guide’s advice to grab some sweets and a French baguette from a local pâtisserie. Thankfully, we just made it inside when the skies opened and there was some of the worst hail we’ve ever seen!

A Change of Plans

Ahead of the cruise, we received a warning that the ship might be unable to dock in Paris due to river water levels. While we could board the ship a short walk from the Eiffel Tower a week ago, that would not be the case for departing Viking Radgrid.

During the disembarkation day talk, the captain announced that the ship would be docking in Le Pecq for the last two days due to high river levels. This did not dramatically change our plans; although, it did mean that we wouldn’t get to walk around Paris at all.

For the last day of this cruise, we had two tours scheduled. The first was the included tour of Napoleon’s Chateau de Malmaison. 

After a short drive to the Chateau, we had about two hours to tour the early 19th-century seat of Napoleon’s government. While not as impressive as some other French castles we visited during this cruise, it was relatively empty which was a nice reprieve. This gave the Viking groups plenty of time and space to enjoy this hidden gem.  

Back on the ship by 12:30 PM, it was a mad dash to lunch before our next 1:30 PM tour. This optional excursion included a guided tour of the Louvre and a brassiere dinner. However, I don’t think we were ready for what a busy museum full of tour groups and priceless works of art really looked like.

To see all the Louvre offers would take two months of daily visits. So, we only got to see the highlights while dodging the crowds. But, from the original fortress foundations to Greek and Italian sculptures to the French crown jewels, the roughly 2.5 hours touched on some of the more noteworthy pieces.

Of course, no trip to this museum is complete without seeing the Mona Lisa or the Venus de Milo. While we did have to battle the crowds, we were able to snap a selfie with the slightly smiling lady.

After some free time to browse the gift shops, we went to a local brassiere for an “authentic” French dinner. Although, the Caprese salad and broiled lamb chop were not precisely what we envisioned. But, the massive profiterole for dessert was a perfect ending to our seven days in France.

Our Viking Seine River Cruise Review Recap

Over 7 days, we traveled back in time through several centuries. We explored historic chateaus, sampled French cuisine, and marveled at the heroism of Allied troops at the very beaches they stormed 80 years ago.

The 55 crew members of Viking Radgrid ensured we were well-fed and well-taken care of along the way. Those who have sailed on smaller cruise ships will feel right at home with the friendliness and quaint surroundings of this longship. With upscale dining, cozy accommodations, and twice-daily service, Viking wraps cruisers in comfort and handles every little detail of the trip.

The onboard atmosphere is casual and relaxed, and Viking Radgrid felt like a floating home away from home.

We must admit as mega-ship cruisers, we were worried that there wouldn’t be enough to do on such a small ship. Yet, that was never the case. In fact, we were often so tired from a day full of exploration ashore that we had to actively keep ourselves awake to enjoy the nighttime entertainment. A round of espresso martinis also helped.

On most of our trips, the ships themselves are the destination. While on a river cruise, the itinerary is the focus. With Viking Radgrid blending into the background, we were able to absorb the scenery, culture, and history. We can’t think of a better way to explore this region than by a river cruise ship.

Ocean cruises and river cruises are two very different options to “sea the world, one port at a time”. But if you enjoy the comforts of a cruise ship and want to explore new destinations, we encourage you too to step outside of your comfort zone and try a river cruise.

Viking offers various sailings throughout Europe, Asia, and even on the Mississippi and Nile rivers. So, we suspect you will find a region of the world worth exploring on your first river cruise.

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